什么是老上海的味道？扣三丝，油爆虾，还是……寻味上海⑧

寻味

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 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">热闹的豫园老城厢，本帮菜鼻祖——<span style="color: #f79646;"><strong>上海老饭店</strong></span>，包裹在浓郁的人间烟火气息中，向熙来攘往的食客，诉说亲切而温暖的上海味道。</p>
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 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">2014年11月，上海本帮菜肴传统烹饪技艺，被列入国家级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录，这项非遗的保护单位，正是百年历史的上海老饭店。</p>
 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">夜幕降临，5层楼的仿明清古建筑，次第亮灯，勾勒出黛瓦朱栏、重檐飞角的轮廓，迎候着初来的游客和常来的老食客。人们悉数入座，愉悦地摊开一本菜单，静候美味佳肴登场。</p>
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 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">这时候，老饭店的后厨已是一番“刀光剑影”。</p>
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 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">最考验刀工的是这里的<span style="color: #f79646;"><strong>招牌菜扣三丝</strong></span>。火腿、鲜笋、鸡胸肉，3种鲜美的食材，事先蒸煮，火腿大火蒸1小时，分档去骨，鲜笋沸水1个半小时，去苦涩味，鸡胸上浆蒸8分钟。食材先批成薄片，再切成细丝，切得不仅要细，还要均匀，鸡丝、笋丝、火腿丝粗细要完全一致，切好的丝要沾水拍实，让它们粘连在一起，一片片排在扣盅壁上，一共6个刀面，再用蒸熟的坐臀肉丝切丝，往器皿中塞紧，大火蒸制8分钟。</p>
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 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">扣三丝的制作技艺，经历了传承和创新。上世纪80年代，上海老饭店在“本帮菜泰斗”李伯荣的带领下，率先推出扣三丝的新标准，一改之前用碗扣蒸的堆叠方式，改用一种底部钻孔的杯子，这样的扣三丝就可以堆叠得更细而高。形如宝塔，汤汁清澈，软糯鲜美。</p>
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 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">本帮经典<span style="color: #f79646;"><strong>油爆河虾</strong></span>，最考验火候的功力，烹饪时间以秒计算。取江苏高邮河虾，每斤50到60粒规格。油温8成左右，河虾下锅，快速翻炸10秒，娴熟的厨师，会不断用手勺搅动着观察，判断时机，出锅沥油。收汁时，再次入锅，取3种酱油、三种糖“大兑汁”，快速翻炒。外脆里嫩，不焦不老，先甜后咸。</p>
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 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">如果说，土生土长的本帮菜，是上海一张独特的文化名片，奠定了这座城市的味觉记忆，那么在上海老饭店缔造的百年传奇里，传承和创新的相融，则释放出的是更多舌尖上的想象空间。</p>
 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">如今，上海老饭店在传承本帮经典之上研发，不断推出令人耳目一新的<span style="color: #f79646;"><strong>本帮菜经典改良版</strong></span>。</p>
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 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;"><span style="color: #f79646;"><strong>拇指生煎</strong></span>，充满匠心。每只仅有12克，鲜肉、蟹粉鲜肉两种口味，用捏褶包法在胚皮中包入鲜美的馅料，然后将“秀气”的生煎包放入平底锅中，用水油煎制数分钟成熟，撒入芝麻和葱花，即可出锅。皮软底脆，汤汁流淌，一口一个！“麻雀虽小五脏俱全”，拇指生煎因为格外小巧玲珑，所以制作工艺相对复杂，做一份大约要花45分钟，这里每天仅限量供应5份。</p>
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 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">把传统的味道和现代人的需求，充满匠心地结合起来，这也许就是本帮菜在这座城市继续繁荣发展的一种生存之道。</p>
 <p style="text-align: justify; display: block;">这些精致的本帮菜，不仅仅是老上海人的集体记忆，更是在向世界诉说，这座城市独特的魅力。</p>
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  文：王蔚<br>
   摄影：张挺&nbsp;张伊辰&nbsp;陈龙&nbsp;祁骏<br>
   剪辑：王卓<br>
   编辑：陈云峰<br>
   责任编辑：王蔚
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什么是老上海的味道？扣三丝，油爆虾，还是……寻味上海⑧

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